Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 8: Luang Prebang
162 people found this feature helpful
The Cockerels and the Monks
We sensed an
immediate slowing of pace once we'd left the airport and been collected by our
guide (Nouvarh). Everything seemed just a little more tranquil and relaxed. There's
less traffic on the roads and even the near misses seem to be played out in
slow motion. We were based at the Villa Chitdara, which gave us homely
beautiful (wood everywhere) accommodation close to Th Sisavangvong (the centre
of it all in Luang Prebang).
The Royal Palace
is now a museum, as the monarchy is no more in Laos, but it’s a beautiful
reminder of the grandeur of past times. The throne room was the most eye-
catching for us, where there were dazzling displays of mosaics on the walls
made of Japanese mirrored glass. There was even a collection of royal cars
including a couple of Lincoln Continentals and an Edsel Citation but the
display was spoiled by a wreck of a Citroen DS that looked like it has just
been dragged out of a field. Opposite I undertook to lessen my growing Buddha belly
by climbing the 329 steps to the top of Phu Si (100m hill) for panoramic views
of the city (somewhat marred by the farmers burning the fields ready to plant
their rice, causing a permanent mist which enveloped the surrounding mountains).
In a city with 33
buddhist temples we visited a few to extend our knowledge of the religion. We thought we were getting a handle on this
but it seems that every tale or legend has at least one more for the same
situation, so we stood no chance. It’s all
very colourful and interesting, even if it’s not likely to be my mastermind
subject.
It was great to
chat to the locals too. One evening we sat opposite the Royal Palace to watch
the sun go down and see the night market set up. A few teenage boys approached
us very politely to ask if they could chat to us as they we studying English
and would welcome the practice. We had a lovely chat about their studies,
ambitions, England, Laos and all manner of other things, a real treat. We also
visited the monastery and chatted to one of the monks about his life
there. It's quite a tough life for them
but for many it's the only option if they want to be fed, clothed and educated.
They say that New
York is the city that never sleeps, but with the roosters crowing on the patch
of land next door from 4am onwards and monks sounding the wake-up call by
banging a big drum about the same time, this place has a shout at the title
too. It didn't matter too much as a very early start saw us watching Tak Bat,
the giving of alms to the monks, which was very informative but has become a
bit of a tourist attraction. After a stop at the morning market we were off to
have breakfast at the Kuang Si Waterfalls. Our guide and driver got us there
early enough to beat the crowds and set up a lavish picnic for us close to the
waterfall. It’s up there as one of the most beautiful places we'd been to and
the experience was so very special. After a refreshing dip we also looked in on
the bear rescue centre there, that has saved many Asiatic black bears from bile
farming.
Another early
start the following morning had us taking the slow boat up the Mekong some 160km
to Lauang Say Lodge at Pakbeng. It's hugely relaxing to watch life unfolding
along the banks of the river, from fishing, to workers collecting sand and much
more. We made stops at the Pak Ou caves to see the hundreds of Buddha statues
hidden here to keep them safe from the looting Chinese Haw. We also stopped at
Ban Baw village for an insight into local whiskey production. Arriving at the
lodge we were treated to one of the best sunsets we'd seen on this trip. As
things turned orange on the Mekong we laughed as the young boys were showing
off their riding skills on the back of water buffalo. It appears that a dam is
being built up river for hydroelectric power, work starting soon and the locals
say that it is rumoured that it will affect the water flow so severely that
this trip may not be possible when it is completed. Just in case, book your trip
now, it's too good an experience to miss.
As we headed back
to Luang Prebang the next day our drive took us on a pass above cloud level. Clouds
filled the valleys beside the Mekong and made it look like the whole region was
on fire, what a view. All day drive gave us a look at village life along the
route, including a stop at the village of one of the minority groups that
inhabit this area. It was an informative stop looking around the traditional
wooden houses and rural lifestyle. A life without electricity and where
schoolboys shed their uniforms at lunchtime to dive in the river and catch
their lunch.
Our epic
adventure was over and what an amazing experience it was, we’ll dine out for
the rest of the year telling tales of this epic. Huge thanks to the team at
Selective Asia for their knowledge and organisational skills, they made it easy
and added so many special touches. Enormous thanks to the people of Indochina,
who were so welcoming and put up with our limited attempts at their languages with
a smile.
Silver Travel Advisor recommends Selective Asia
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 1: Hanoi
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 2: Halong Bay and Hue
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 3: Hue and Hoi An
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 4: Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 5: Mekong Delta
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 6: Phnom Penh
- Indochine with Selective Asia – Chapter 7: Siem Reap
162 people found this feature helpful
Read more
What are your thoughts?
To leave a comment, please Sign inOther Members' Thoughts - 2 Comment(s)