Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 7: Siem Reap
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The Microlight and the Ox Cart
I was posing with
my Silver Travel bag before my maiden microlight flight thinking "what
have you got yourself into now". This was way outside my comfort zone but
Eddie (my American pilot) told me he'll take care of everything, connect my
headset, put on my helmet etc. Then we were off, "we get to 45mph and then
lift off" says Eddie and it’s amazing how quickly the ground drops away
when you lift off in a go cart with a propeller on the back. In all honesty the
jitters only lasted for 30 seconds, Eddie clearly knows what he's doing and has
thousands of hours in the air and gently talked me thorough what was going on. By
this time I was in ‘absolutely thrilled’ mode and admiring the Angkor temples
from a unique perspective and they all look a bit tiny from 750 feet up. As
well as great views of the countryside and great air conditioning from the big
fan behind me, we also spotted a trail that was possibly the route the stones
took from the mountains to build these majestic temples. 25 mins in the air was
overall too soon and although the ground comes up just as fast as it had
dropped away, a smooth landing meant that it was Linda's turn to take my place.
She's braver than me because she doesn't like heights but did it anyway and in
the end thought it was as magnificent an experience as I did.
Although it
didn't seem that big from the sky, on the ground the 1.5 by 1.3 km compound
that constitutes the largest religious building in the world, is well, big. Angkor
Wat's 5 principle towers, representing the five peaks of Mount Meru, is the
profile that graces the Cambodian flag and countless photos but still retains
its wow factor when you see it up close and personal for the first time. The
beauty of it is only enhanced when you add its mirror image reflected in the
water. Built by King Suryavarman II in the early 12 century, moving the stones
to the site must have made it a logistical, as well as building wonder of its
time. We were awed again at Angkor Thom
where 54 demons fight it out with 54 gods in a representation of the legend of
the churning of the ocean of milk. 54 towers are decorated with 215 giant faces
of Avalokiteshvara, that smile to acknowledge our open jaws of appreciation.
Man and monkey
exist harmoniously here, with young boys (monks in training) from the close by
monastery, shrieking with delight as the younger monkeys chase them through the
temple. Some of the Buddha-shaped monkeys are clearly being over fed by the
tourists though. Whilst many of the carvings in other temples have faded as the
sandstone has eroded, at Banteay Srei the harder stone with the pinkish hue
mean that the intricate carvings are still simply beautiful. The name means
citadel of woman, so I walked a respectful distance behind Linda throughout our
tour (what a humble soul I am). Ta Prohm reminded us that nature can never be
underestimated and, left to its own devices, will claim back these man made
intrusions into the jungle. Enormous roots from the Spung tree envelope and
strangle some of the stonework and penetrate the walls, ready to reclaim this
site back to Mother Nature.
Parakeets screech warnings from the branches of the
trees that this temple will be lost if humans are not vigilant. When we thought
we could be amazed no further our attentive guide Sarorn pulled a rabbit out of
the hat. He set up a sunset picnic complete with Cambodian Champagne (Angkor
Beer) beside Srah Srang the expansive royal bathing pool. Not another tourist in
sight, just the locals herding their cows back home and fishermen casting their
nets in the orange glow. Cheers to Khmer genius past and present.
As far from microlight
flying as you can imagine, our next experience of Cambodian transport was to
rumble through the countryside on an ox drawn cart. It was a beautiful
experience, watching the pelican like birds plucking snails from the rice
stalks in the paddy fields and locals going about their agricultural business. Interesting
and peaceful though this cart ride was, I couldn't help giving thanks to Mr
Goodyear and the other gods of the pneumatic type. Thank goodness I don’t have
to travel on this bone rattling mode of wooden wheel transportation all the
time. Before the ride we had collected some fresh produce from the market at
Krabei Real where I was viciously assaulted by two fish that refused to stay in
their bowl and jumped out to nibble my ankles. The produce was expertly
converted into delicious local dishes by the family who had agreed to share
their home with us that day. As well as a warm welcome, they shared insights
into how life was lived in the villages. Their delightful 13 year old daughter
practiced her English on us whilst we were sitting in the shade under their
house on stilts. It’s here that she also teaches English to the younger
children of the village (bright girl). Our hosts are survivors of the time of
Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge and clearly appreciate and savour every minute of
their life now those dark times are over. They are particularly delighted to be
following a local tradition and looking after their 5 year old granddaughter
full time, whilst their eldest son and his wife focus on her pregnancy and
looking after the baby when it arrives. What an absolute treat to spend time
with this lovely family and a fitting end to our Cambodian adventure as we head
to Laos.
Silver Travel Advisor recommends Selective Asia
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 1: Hanoi
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 2: Halong Bay and Hue
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 3: Hue and Hoi An
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 4: Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 5: Mekong Delta
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 6: Phnom Penh
- Indochina with Selective Asia - Chapter 8: Luang Prebang
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