The most bizzare beach resort I’ve ever stayed in

After a full-on, three-week tour of Ghana, Togo and Benin, we looked forward to sun, sand, sea and relaxation at Brenu Beach Lodge, around a three-hour drive from Accra with the final 30 minutes being down a rutted track. On arrival there was a distinct lack of formalities: our vehicle was met, and our bags […]…

No sun loungers, beer, salad or fries

Whilst touring Ghana we stayed for two nights at the Mekandi Riverside Resort, located on the outskirts of the small town of Akosombo. This was a relatively large hotel with 19 standard and premium rooms, and two suites. They were all ground floor and arranged in blocks, surrounded by substantial lawns and grounds overlooking the […]…

Monkeying around with the Monas

Whilst touring Ghana we visited the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, having stopped to buy bananas on route. On arrival, our guide Robert began by telling us that Mona monkeys have inhabited the tropical forest surrounding the small village of Tafi-Atome for years, and have been protected as it was believed they were messengers to the […]…

Walking to the highest falls in West Africa

Wli Agumatsa Waterfall, the tallest in West Africa, has both lower and upper falls and a trek from the visitors’ centre took us to the former as the hike to the latter was too strenuous for a couple of ‘Silver Travellers’. As expected, guides were mandatory, and although ours had a slight stature set off […]…

A hotel charging for WiFi and breakfast juice

We stayed overnight at Ghana’s Wli Water Heights Hotel whilst visiting the nearby waterfalls. On arrival, there were no check in formalities, and we were simply led to room 2, one of 6 in a row. The reasonably sized room had the double bed pushed against the wall, which we moved to make both sides […]…

The best hotel on our trip followed the worst

Somewhat ironically the worst hotel of our five-week tour of West Africa, was followed by the best, and both were in Togo. Kpalimé, one of the most visited places in Togo due to its climate and unspoilt landscapes, is only a two-hour drive from the capital Lome. We stayed for one night at The Hôtel […]…

A slightly quirky hotel in Benin’s administrative capital

Our first three nights in the West African country Benin, were spent at Hotel La Casa Cielo in Cotonou. Although Benin’s official capital is Porto-Novo, 30km away, Cotonou is the de-facto administrative capital. The hotel had 36 rooms and we were in 303 on the second floor. The large room had a hard king-size bed […]…

Visiting the Venice of West Africa

Whilst staying in the Benin city of Cotonou, we took an excursion to what is known as the Venice of West Africa – Ganvie Stilt Village. Located on Lake Nokoue, it was originally created for the Tofinu people to stay safe from slave hunters, but it has become part of their culture and way of […]…

A hotel surely ripe for closure

When the most positive feature of a hotel is the strength of the WiFi, it’s not a good sign. The Amazone Hotel in Bohican, Benin, was a last-minute replacement for the Sun City Hotel in nearby Abomey which had closed down. The rudimentary check-in provided a key card with masking tape wrapped round it and […]…

Plus Jamais d’Esclavage – No More Slavery

Whilst staying in Togo’s capital, Lome, we visited ‘Maison des Esclaves’ or Slave House, and we sat on a wooden bench whilst a guide gave us the history of the house. Although slavery was officially abolished in 1807, it continued illegally between 1830 and 1852 from the clandestine trading house. Built by Scottish slave trader, […]…

Catholicism meets Voodoo in Togoville

Togoville, is located on the northern shore of Lake Togo, and to avoid a long road trip, we took a large motorised pirogue from the town of Agbodrafo on the southern shore. Fortunately, the captain was able to land on the small beach and we didn’t have to wade out as I’d feared. On nearing […]…

Learning about the Nana Benz, visiting a fetish market and eating cow skin

Togo’s capital Lomé is often referred to as the ‘Pearl of West Africa’ due to its broad boulevards and cosmopolitan atmosphere and our day of sightseeing took in several sights. GRAND MARCHE The market occupies an entire city block, and the majority of vendors were women and children offering a huge variety of goods, which […]…

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