Grannies on Safari: the Grannies in Ireland – Part 3

By Hook or by Crook

Loftus Hall We stayed at the excellent Brandon House hotel in New Ross which was a great improvement on the theoretically superior Europa hotel in Belfast, which had a feeble to non-existent public WiFi network, no fresh cooked breakfast options & it was hard going to get a smile from the staff.

From New Ross it was a short journey to Dunganstown & the Kennedy Homestead. It’s only a simple farm with the old family house & a large stable with memoribilia & details of the Kennedy family history.

Few Americans would pass up the opportunity to visit the Kennedy homestead in Dunganstown and the Grannies were thrilled at the prospect. It’s a simple place with a homespun exhibition that Kennedy heir Patrick Grennan says, “all came from suitcases and old biscuit tins.” A brand-new visitors centre is currently being built & will open in 2013. It will be more practical, more visitor friendly but I couldn’t help thinking that some of the charm and simplicity – that reflects the old family, might be lost amongst the modern visitors facilities.

Grannies and Patrick Grennan Patrick Grennan, one of the most charming men you might ever meet, is the heir to the Kennedy homestead, the farm that PJ Kennedy left to sail to America in 1848. PJ was a cooper & had a job to go to in Boston, so was more fortunate than many other immigrants.

JFK returned to the Dunganstown family homestead in 1947, then again in 1963 when he made a famous speech on the quay at New Ross which is just along from the Dunbrody ship. He promised to return for a more private family reunion, but five months later he was dead.

There’s a statue of him on the quay & as part of next year’s tourism inititive – ‘The Gathering 2013’ it is proposed to bring the eternal flame from Arlington cemetry to the quay at New Ross.

Hook Lighthouse The nearby Hook peninsula has a wild & rugged beauty & at its tip is the ancient Hook lighthouse. As a thirteenth century Norman structure, the Hook lighthouse is the oldest operational lighthouse in the world. Built 800 years ago by William Marshall, its four-metre thick walls have ensured it is an amazingly well-preserved Norman building.

The Hook lighthouse is an important shipping guide into Waterford harbour & the town on the other side of the entrance is called Crook – this is the origin of – ‘by Hook or by Crook.’ This phrase is attributed to Oliver Cromwell before his murderous rampage across Ireland when he said, “I’ll take Ireland by Hook or by Crook.”

On the way back for another night in New Ross the Grannies were keen to stop off at Loftus Hall, a grand Victorian mansion overlooking Waterford harbour. They were intrigued by a tale of the devil’s visit, which was so widely believed that when the house was left empty for decades, no thieves or vandals every went near it.

Glendalough

Glendalough Round Tower A two-hour drive north from New Ross brought us to Glendalough, one of Ireland’s most visited destinations. It’s only an hour south of Dublin, but it could be centuries away from the metropolis – except during high summer when it’s as busy as Grafton Street in Dublin.

Glendalough is a glacial valley with steep granite cliffs on one side, and it’s a beautiful walk to the upper lake. At the valley head there are the ruins of an abandoned miners village where lead was mined from 1850 until about 1957.

Historian and archeologist George McClafferty, from the visitors centre, explained the history & myths of Glendalough – a beautiful wooded valley in the Wicklow Mountains with the ruins of a sixth century monastic city.

Glendalough It was built by the followers of the St Kevin and destroyed during the British Reformation. Today the ruins are still impressive and include houses, churches, a graveyard and the 110-foot round tower which is 1,000 years old and one of the best in Ireland.

The Round tower was originally a bell tower with a doorway ten feet above the ground to deter attacks, especially from Viking raiders that plagued the area.

Get there before 10am and you can have the place to yourself.

Gypsy Grannies Regina couldn’t wait to get behind the reins of the traditional travellers horse-drawn caravan that Neasa Clissmann brought to our film shoot at Glendalough; “it’s only tourist that are keeping this tradition alive,” Neasa said.

Some of us thought it might seem a bit cheesy, but it’s a green way to travel, and the slow pace is a great way to appreciate the landscape and everyone you meet smiles and wants to chat.

Photographs by Peter Lynch


Read Part 1
– the Grannies in Ireland
Read Part 2 – the Grannies in Ireland

142 people found this helpful
17327

Share Article:

Peter Lynch

Journalist, rail and wildlife specialist & contributor to Great Train Journeys of the World

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.