Chateau Tilques, Saint Omer – stylish base for a short break in Pas-de-Calais
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Our spacious ‘Luxe’ room in the main house had big windows
overlooking the tranquil rear lawns and lake, and furnishings that were
comfortable rather than grand. My
favourite feature, just off the private entrance hall, was the ultra-modern
shower room, neatly fitted into a compact circular tower. Some of the hotel’s 51 rooms are in an annexe
close to the indoor pool and spa (book treatments in advance to avoid
The restaurant at Chateau Tilques is also in a separate
building just across the drive - umbrellas available in inclement weather. Despite its barn-like proportions, it
manages to be a surprisingly intimate space, divided by half-walls into smaller
sections and with tables well-spaced. Choose from fixed price menus, with choices, or a la carte, and expect tasty
little extras like home-made canapes with drinks and amuse-bouche mouthfuls
before the starter.
We stayed two nights in spring and were impressed by the
quality and variety of the cuisine which features classic French dishes with
seasonal produce and the occasional international twist. There are regular themed evenings here too,
but we didn’t hear a note of the rock music evening taking place in a distant
function suite during our stay.
Criticisms? We found
the bar area a little lacking in atmosphere but in summer, there’d be no problem
finding a quiet corner of the garden to sip your aperitif. The staff were excellent – friendly,
efficient and largely bilingual – and although we were aware of guests walking
up the staircase close to our bedroom, once everyone was settled, the hotel’s
rural position ensured a good night’s sleep.
Guests at Chateau Tilques enjoy a 20% discount at St Omer
golf club as well as being able to play tennis at the hotel and hire
bikes. But it would be a shame to come
here and not explore the local area. If
you love old cars and don’t mind a lively ride, you can even travel by classic
2CV, available to hire from nearby Clairmarais.
St Omer itself is packed with history – pop in the Tourist
Office for information in English – and the Saturday morning market fills the
main square and surrounding streets with scent and colour.
Our favourite local attraction was the excellent Maison du
Marais, a brand new interpretation centre for the Audomarois marshes, a
UNESCO-listed wetland on the edge of Saint-Omer around the river Aa (pronounced
Ah-Ah). This unique area was originally
dug out by monks and enlarged across the centuries. Today it’s a mix of natural environment and
market gardening, producing 50 varieties of vegetable and home to an impressive
list of wildlife including 232 species of birds, 100 species of butterflies, 42
mammals and 25 different fish.
Some 40km from the sea, the marshes include 170km of
waterways and for a handful of euros, you can take a guided excursion from the
discovery centre in a traditional bacove or flat-bottomed boat with an
English-speaking guide. We saw marsh
buzzards, kingfisher, and herons, and found out about a unique way of life
where 100 people still live on tiny islands and the local postman is the last
one in France to deliver the mail by boat.
The Maison du Marais puts the landscape into context with
the use of atmospheric film, models, exhibitions and photographs. Labels are in English and braille, and the exhibition
space is easily navigable by wheelchair or visitors with buggies.
Lovers of military history will also enjoy La Coupole, a
unique site of a very different sort.
Tucked beneath a cliff on the south side of Saint Omer, this vast domed
bunker was built as a launch bunker for V2 rockets trained on London. Discover the full story; learn how German
rocket technology advanced the American space programme; and watch 3-D films in
I’d also recommend heading west towards the coast and
stopping at Desvres where the newly revamped Ceramics Museum provides a
wonderful overview of the industry that gave the town an international
reputation. Today there is just one
commercial producer left, but the craftsmen at Desvres were masters at copying
any style of ceramics from any corner of the globe. Anyone addicted to television antiques and
collectables’ programmes won’t want to miss seeing their handiwork in this
charming and informative museum.
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