Guernsey - an enriching experience
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Guernsey is often referred to in the same breath as Jersey, but to do so is a mistake. Quite apart from the friendly (and sometimes not so friendly) rivalry between the two islands, Guernsey is a destination which has its own Government, its own piece of history and very much its own identity.
In fact there’s so much history on this small island that the only way to really experience it is to use the services of a local guide, and preferably one whose personal story brings that history to life.
Annette Henry is a grandmother, Gold accredited tour guide, local islander, and a walking talking encyclopaedia of knowledge and passion about her island. In three short hours we managed to learn so much about this small but resilient island as well as her own family story. In a nutshell, it’s all about the French and the Germans.
The French
A whistle stop tour back to the 10th century finds les Iles de Normande until the Battle of Hastings in 1066, when they became part of the combined realm of Normandy and England, from which the red and yellow flag was created. Fast forward to 1204 and King John lost Normandy, with the islanders forced into a decision as to where their allegiance lay. The two nations tried to woo the islanders, but it was the offer of better tax concessions and other local powers which swayed them to go with the English. As Annette recounted this story, it brought to my mind David Cameron sprinting north of the border ahead of the referendum to offer much the same kind of arrangement to the Scots.
Geographically, there was also a divide and the original Guernsey (meaning Green Isle), was in fact two islands, north and south, until 1804 when Lieutenant Governor Doyle made the bold decision to protect the North Island from the invasion of the French by draining the water away between the two islands and reclaiming the land. He then built the structure of road networks that still exists today.
The Germans
The second huge influence which can be seen in almost every part of the island is German – when Churchill declared the Channel Islands to be an open town rather than to protect them, Annette explained that the islanders (including her own family) felt abandoned. Nonetheless the decision was made in Westminster and half of the population (20,000) were evacuated in just 2 days courtesy of English boats.
Fast forward to the 21st century, and today three quarters of the population work in financial institutions located mainly in the capital of St Peter Port which has a proliferation of important looking offices and industry. This has created a housing market not unlike the wealthier parts of the UK, and simple properties cost over £0.5m and multi-million pound residences are very much in evidence.
At the other end of spectrum can be found Hedge Veg and honesty boxes dotted around the island. Our guide Annette had sold over 400 cucumbers at 50p each last year – there may be huge deals being conducted by the men in suits just down the road, but this microcosm industry is doing very nicely.
Literary and artistic connections
These abound in Guernsey, from Moulins Huets where Renoir painted 15 works of art to the fishing port of Bordeaux where Victor Hugo wrote Les Travailleurs de la Mer.

Fred was one of the very few children who remained on the island during WW2 as his mother refused to let him be evacuated, having already lost her husband. Hearing about his life first hand was fascinating –during the period when all food supplies to the island were cut off, he ate a lot of cabbage soup. At 12 noon each day the cannon is fired at Castle Cornet – a word of warning, it’s very loud, so stand back and put your fingers in your ears!
Time for Lunch!
A tour of Guernsey would not be complete without sampling some of the fresh seafood and local produce which makes this one of the gastronomic centres of Europe. And lunch at Village East overlooking the harbour front at St Peter Port made for
It was a time to reflect on this fascinating island with its extraordinary history. My advice, which could apply also to the lunch, is to savour Guernsey at leisure, don’t rush or think of it as a day trip. It’s worthy of your time and attention and you will leave feeling educated and enriched.
For more information see www.visitguernsey.com/home
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If you’re intending to do some walking whilst on holiday the bus will take you close to many coastal walks and I would advise a visit to the Tourist Information Centre for advice and routes before you go, the person we spoke to was really helpful and gave us lots of information about the island and it’s various attractions. It’s located just up the road from the bus station.
Talking of attractions, please do not miss the German Occupation Museum at Torteval. It’s the personal lifetime collection of one man collected over the years, he’s still there, and the items he’s collected give a lot of insight into the difficulties, tribulations and betrayals suffered by the islanders at this time. There is a small cafe at the rear and stairs leading off this take you upstairs to further displays of a street and cottage interior depicting living conditions.
Finally, no matter where you go on the island you won’t be very far from really excellent food, whether it’s a seaside cafe or upmarket restaurant in St Peter Port - enjoy!