Uzbekistan: On the Golden Road to Samarkand with Jules Verne – Part 1
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World Heritage on the Silk Road
Cradle of
culture for over 2000 years, Uzbekistan follows a legendary Silk Road lined
with UNESCO cities. Natural disasters and troubled history have caused
substantial destruction, but palaces, fortresses, madrassas and mosques still
dazzle visitors, beautifully restored with a fair degree of artistic licence.
A short
flight from Tashkent, Khiva was our first call, an oasis between two deserts where
caravans used to rest on their way to Persia. I loved Ichon Qala, the
earth-coloured inner town enclosed by a crenellated wall, 2.2 km around and up
to 10 metres high. Most exciting was the West Gate for if you climb up the
tower, you can enjoy all round views: old houses, historic buildings, domes and
minarets bristling across the citadel, among them the mysterious Kalta Minar,
heavenly blue but never finished, and the highest, Islam Khoja with challenging
steps to the top. Islam was set up by Arab invaders around AD700 and after
centuries of ups and downs, Khiva grew into a major cultural and religious
centre until the Soviet era put an end to it all. Mosques and madrassas
(colleges) promptly declined though some found a new life as a museum or luxury
hotel, graced by glistening blue and white majolica tiles. But most atmospheric
is the Juma (Friday) Mosque where in the semi-darkness, the past lingers in a
vast prayer hall supported by carved elm pillars, over 200 of them, a few
dating back to the 10th century. You'll also find inspiring mosques from the
1800s, sacred mausoleums, haunting palaces and myriad souvenir stalls along the
cobbled street. The camels have gone but the Silk Road is doing well.
From cotton
fields to windy steppes, it was an all-day drive to Bukhara and its sparkling
illuminations, a world away from quiet moonlit Khiva. Yet we soon discovered
that all main attractions were within walking distance of Lyabi Hauz, the
pretty central park just across the road from our hotel. There we sipped green
tea under the mulberry trees, gazed at the lofty madrassas mirrored in an
emerald pond and wandered around the winding lanes where local life went on
behind carved wooden doors. Later we discovered the old trading domes packed
with craft then stepped out into the Poi Kalyon square with the tapering Great
Minaret rising 45 metres above the city. In this amazing complex with its own
madrassa and mosque, I sat for a while in the vast inner courtyard, marvelling
at domes and columns as a few worshippers made their way to prayer. We could
not see all the monuments - there are 140 of them - but I was impressed by
every magnificent façade glistening with blue tiles, the unusual Chor Minor
with its four minarets, the Bolo Khauz mosque fronted by 20 columns and the
Ismail Samani mausoleum once buried in an artificial hill to hide it from
Genghis Khan. We peeped around the Ark, the ancient fortress and residence of
the local Emirs, but soon it was time to leave this magical city and inspired
by Flecker's poem, continue our tour on 'The Golden Road to Samarkand'.
This is the
country's second largest city, the 'Gem of the East' with tree-lined avenues,
lawns and parks, a sprinkling of outstanding monuments and over the mountain
pass to the south, Shakhrisabz, the birth place of Timur, the iconic 14th
century ruler. His vast memorial complex is popular for wedding photos but most
dramatic is the largely unrestored
Central Gateway where the past really feels within reach. Back in town we went
up to the Observatory of Ulug Beg, the brilliant astronomer come ruler who
positioned over 1000 stars in the 15th century. Other monuments include the
stunning turquoise and blue Shah-i-Zinda (mausoleum of the patron saint), the
Timur mausoleum (Gur-i-Amir) and the heavily restored Bibi Khanym mosque, built
for Timur by his Lady though not at all appreciated. Then surrounded by
parkland at the heart of town is Registan, the most breathtaking square, once
covered in sand hence the name, today a vast open space leading down to three
spectacular madrassas, Ulug Beg the oldest, Sher Dor on the other side with its
ribbed domes and mosaic work, and in the centre, Tilla Kari with the superb
gold and blue interior. We spent much time within the complex while the last
night treated us to the most evocative sons et lumières along the memorable
Silk Road.
More information
I travelled
with Jules Verne on the Golden Road to Samarkand.
Visa
requirements are being reviewed but if you need to apply (online), make sure
your photo is the exact size (guaranteed for a small fee by visafoto) and use a
gmail address.
Continental
climate means weather can change unexpectedly so pack and carry layers as well
as raingear and suncream.
A torch is
always useful and absolutely essential if you intend to climb up a minaret.
You may be
charged to use your camera, usually 5000 soms (50p), have change ready.
Silver Travel
Advisor recommends Jules Verne.
Part 2– Amazing Arts and Crafts
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