Cape Town and the Peninsula

The prisoners and the proposal

Table Mountain is the iconic location of Cape Town and, because we’d arrived on a beautifully clear afternoon, we decided to start with a trip to the top. Parking your car close to the lower cable car station is an experience in itself. As I nudged forward towards the less than sturdy rope separating us from the sheer drop, I could sense Linda mentally climbing into the back seat (beautiful views over Cape Town and Table Bay though).

Cape Town view from Table Mountain

We’d pre-purchased our tickets, so we walked smugly by the long queue and managed to get on the next cable car up to the top. Uniquely the floor inside the cable car rotates through 360 degrees as the car rises to the top, so everyone gets a chance to admire the view. At the top we walked many of the paths offering different and spectacular views and within minutes a cloud had drifted in and covered the back quarter of the mountain. A very visible reminder about how conditions can change on the mountain very quickly and that, if it’s a clear day, you should take your chance to get to the top. During the remainder of our stay in Cape Town the mountain had its ‘table cloth on’ meaning it was largely shrouded in cloud.

A trip to Robben Island is another Cape Town must and our return trip there was on a rather swanky catamaran (which had been drafted into service alongside the usual ferries to catch up after early morning fog). The tour on the island takes two parts, the first being a bus tour of the island and its facilities. The guide sets the scene and explains that whilst many think of the physical aspects of Apartheid, the race separation, the violence or massacres, it was the mental side that was perhaps the most damaging. The mental conditioning of the population based purely on skin colour, setting categories apart and causing resentment between them. The second part is a tour of the prison, conducted by former political prisoners of the island, which gives visitors a first hand and vivid insight into the regime and conditions within the prison. An educational experience lightened and enhanced by the ‘Brucey Bonus’ of a whale sighting during the crossing.

Company's Garden, Cape Town Cape Town is a very hilly place, so we eased the strain on our legs by taking the Citysightseeing Hop on Hop off tour, which gives you easy access to the V&A Waterfront, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, etc. There are numerous routes to choose from or combine, but although the yellow route takes you through the old town, we chose to get off and walk around Company’s Garden. We also made the somewhat steep trek up Wale Street to the Bo-Kapp district. This is the oldest residential area in Cape Town, where you can view the brightly coloured houses and cobbled streets of this multi-cultural neighbourhood.

From the city we took a day to do a tour of the peninsula. It was recommended that we set off at 9/9:30am and drive directly to Cape Point where the queues to enter the National Park grow quickly. Good advice as, when we left 90 mins after entering, the queues had gone from negligible when we arrived, to substantial. A funicular takes you up to the cliff paths, which allowed us to enjoy views along this rugged coastline. As with most of this coastline, waves crash into the boulders and the rocks bringing them with brilliant white spray. Springing (trudging) up the many steps to the historic (but largely ineffective due to the clouds and mist) 1860 lighthouse was rewarded with an experience you just can’t plan. At the top a man bent the knee and proposed to his girlfriend, followed by a skin tingling roar from the watching crowd and causing a tear in the eye of many including this grizzled old traveller.

Warnings are everywhere about the baboons around the peninsula and the need to treat them with respect. So when a troop caused a minor traffic jam on the coast road, it was windows up and enjoy watching them stroll around as if they owned the place (which they sort of do). African (jackass) penguin chick Less troublesome were the African (jackass) penguins at Boulders Beach. Here we watched them incubating their eggs or snuggling their young or waddling around, seemingly impersonating Charlie Chaplin (any running seemed to involve tumbling onto their belly at least once). A boardwalk has been constructed so we watched them from there, causing minimal disturbance to their nesting, although we understand there are some parts where you can clamber across the boulders to get even closer to them if you wish (I am now frowning with disapproval).

Simon’s Town is close by, so we took the opportunity to have a coffee there and enjoy the Victorian architecture on display. There are many British influences on show here and right across the peninsula, not least with some familiar names. Simon's Town We paid an enjoyable visit to Scarborough to see the beautiful white sandy beach and the surfers tackling the crashing waves and some scary looking rocks. Unfortunately, we were a little late at Llandudno, a local favourite to watch the sunset, so couldn’t get parked. No matter, instead we chose to take the Chapman’s Peak Drive and for a mere £3 toll it’s probably one of the most exhilarating cliff side drives we’ve ever done. Running 9km along Chapman’s Peak, with the boulder strewn Atlantic Ocean on the other side (a vertigo inducing drop down) it features 114 curves along its length. Literally hacked into a 630-million-year- old granite contour running along the cliff face, it was the first time half-tunnelling was used in South Africa. For one section, a 155m channel was cut into the granite, so the road sits under the resulting overhanging rock mass. An awesome drive on a bright sunny day but probably one to avoid if the mist rolls in.

Half-tunnelling at Chapman's Peak Drive

There’s a casual and easy going feel to this part of the world, people are generally welcoming and friendly, there are so many great places to eat and local wines to drink, what’s not to love!

Silver Travel Advisor recommends Africa Sky and Somak

225 people found this helpful
19075

Share Article:

Steve Aldridge

Award-winning travel writer

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.