Star Clippers - Western Mediterranean Cruise
Cannes to Rome, calling at Corsica, Elba and Sardinia
My only problem with cruises is an increasingly bulging
waistline, a result of too many big dinners and not enough exercise. This time,
the itinerary involves Mediterranean island hopping, stopping at relatively
rural locations. Looking at the map, I think it might be possible to indulge in
some leisurely hiking each day I’m on shore.
I arrive in Cannes after an easy thirty minute transfer from
Nice Airport. The Royal Clipper, the largest five masted fully-rigged sailing
ship in the world, is anchored in the bay. Its sails are furled, and tenders
are waiting to ferry me and around 200 other passengers to the ship. With
everyone safely on board, we set off for Italy, using the engines, as there’s
not enough wind for the sails.
My spacious cabin is on the Commodore deck, almost at sea
level, and it’s comfortably equipped with a large double bed, ample storage
space and bathroom with shower, washbasin and toilet. Two portholes allow me to
monitor the world outside. Dinner has waiter service and there are at least a
couple of choices on a menu which includes appetiser, soup, sorbet, main
course, salad, cheese and dessert. I’m not going to go hungry.
Morning sees the coast of the Italian Riviera looming and I
go out on deck and join around ten passengers for a session of yoga, offered
free to all. We pass Genoa, follow the Riviera di Levante and arrive at the
attractive port of Santa Margherita Ligure. After a buffet lunch, I don my
walking boots and take the tender into town. My plan is to hike up to hills
above the town and follow the footpath to Portofino.
I climb up to Nozarego and get amazing views over the Gulf
of Tigullio, the Royal Clipper sitting proud in the bay. Soon, I’m in the Monte
di Portofino National Park and a well signed path leads me through tiny
villages before descending steeply to Portofino. The stunning horse shoe
harbour, lined with pastel coloured houses, is dominated by Castello Brown on
the hill above, and I enjoy a well-deserved beer by the quayside.
We sail overnight and next morning arrive in L’Isle Rousse
on Corsica’s North West coast. I’m planning another hike - the craggy mountains
of the island’s interior provide a backdrop to the town but I’m not going to go
that far. My guide book shows a ten mile trail which ends at a railway station
further down the coast. After checking the timetable, I set out.
The way is marked by yellow flashes and I climb steadily
reaching Occiglioni, at around 400m, only a cluster of houses, before reaching
the 9th century hilltop village of Sant’Antonino. It fully deserves
its title as ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’, its rectangular
stark stone buildings silhouetted against the sky. From here I can see the
railway line wriggling its way along turquoise coast below.
Conscious of time, I pick up the pace, and manage to reach
the station just before the scheduled departure of 4.45. I’m now beginning to
worry as the last tender leaves port at 5.30 and there’s no sign of any train.
The station is unmanned, with no information, so I set off to the main road to try
my luck hitch hiking. Fortunately I get a ride and am soon on the tender back
to the ship.
Overnight we sail round Cap Corse and anchor off a
beautiful stretch of sand beach. I’ve worked out that, after a quick swim, it’s
around a four hour walk to Bastia, a picturesque town with a recently restored
citadel. This time the boat is moored at the port, so there’s no need for
tenders, and I make it with plenty of time to spare. As we leave, all 42 sails
are hoisted for the first time, to a Vangelis soundtrack.
Majestically, we make our way under sail towards the island of Elba and the capital
Portoferraio, is probably the most attractive town of the
entire voyage. Narrow winding alleys climb up from the harbour to the double
fortifications of Forte Falcone and Forte Stella, where there are glorious
views from the 16th century ramparts. The Villa dei Mulini is where Napoleon
lived during his exile and his death mask rests in the Chiesa della
No hiking today as I’ve signed up for a bike and kayak
excursion. We cycle along the coast, dodging the traffic, for about an hour
before reaching a beautiful bay. There we transfer to kayaks and, after
paddling through sunken caves, pull up on a deserted beach for a swim. It’s an
exhilarating morning, although I’m thinking I’m going to need the yoga to
soothe my aching shoulders.
Overnight we sail back to Corsica and anchor off
Portovecchio, the town standing proud above the port. It’s pleasant enough, but
almost entirely dedicated to tourism with souvenir shops, cafes and
restaurants. I enquire about hiking trails but the tourist office tells me that
I need to take a boat. Time doesn’t allow so I return to the ship.
I have a similar problem next day at Porto Servo in
Sardinia, the capital of Costa Smeralda. The coastline was developed by the Aga
Khan in the 1960s as a playground for the rich and famous. In the harbour, I
walk past designer stores, including outdoor showrooms for Rolls Royce and
Bugatti, and there’s not a tourist office to be seen. I content myself by
walking to the nearest beach and enjoying the crystal clear waters.
It’s the final night on board as we make good way under sail
to Civitavecchia, the port of Rome. My experiment of trying to hike a few miles
of hiking every day has worked well. Even better, the mornings of yoga have eased
my muscles. I’m convinced that the exercise has kept my weight stable. Unfortunately
the scales back home tell a different story.
The Royal Clipper is not suitable for those who need
assistance walking as it has no lifts and there are stairs to negotiate. In
addition, transferring to shore by tender, means you need a certain amount of
The next Cannes
to Rome cruise on Royal Clipper, with the same itinerary, will take
place from 8 Jun to 15 Jun 2019. Prices start from £1,645pp.
flies from Gatwick to Cannes and Rome back to Gatwick.
The Gatwick Express is the
fastest way to the airport, from central London.
Silver Travel Advisor recommends Star Clippers.