The spectacular Danube to the Black Sea with Shearings - Part 1
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… and don’t forget your pacemakers!
This friendly reminder from Gill, our cruise manager, caused
slight consternation among a few passengers, especially those with real pacemakers!
It also revealed those who had not paid full attention to Gill’s welcome
speech. We were about to disembark from our luxurious cruise ship, the MS
Serenade 2, for the first of the 11 city tours we would enjoy during our 14-day
Shearings’ cruise ‘The Spectacular Danube to the Black Sea’. The ‘pacemakers’
are actually the Quietvox listening devices provided in every cabin. These
enable passengers to hear the tour guide’s commentary from a considerable
distance (even, as I can confirm, when you’ve popped into a shop or toilets).
The first city on our itinerary was Vienna - home to Mozart
and the magnificent Lipizzaner horses. Our luxury coach tour of the city passed
by many buildings of interest including the State Opera House, Johann Strauss
House and the Hapsburg Imperial Palace. Our walking tour included glimpses of
the wonderful white horses and allowed us 25 minutes free time in the city
centre. As we were sailing for Hungary later that day we were unable to take
advantage of the evening excursions advertised in the Shearings’ Shore
Excursions booklet that included a horse-drawn carriage ride through the city
and a Mozart and Strauss concert.
Back on board a sumptuous 6-course Gala dinner awaited us.
We had opted for the ‘All-inclusive’ drinks package and were pleasantly
surprised by the quality of the house wines included in the deal. There was no
allocated seating in the dining room. Gill preferred to allow friendship groups
to form and then have the option of reserving tables in groups of 8 and 4 for
the rest of the trip.
After coffee, I consulted my home-made spreadsheet to see
what adventure awaited us the following day. With such a busy itinerary
covering 7 different countries, 5 different currencies, 6 included tours and 8
optional tours, I needed to set this information out in an easily assimilated
format. However, you quickly learn that on river cruises there are five key
elements that are completely beyond anyone’s control: weather, river depth,
current, locks and border controls. Any or indeed all of these can conspire to
wreck the proposed schedule leaving you with no choice but to go with the flow.
Thus, when we arrived at the Hungarian town of Kalocsa quite
late on the following afternoon, thanks to the ship’s unexpectedly slow
progress, we were somewhat disappointed to find it mostly shut. I had been
looking forward to visiting the Paprika Museum. Most of my fellow passengers
settled down in bars and ice-cream parlors while I ventured off in search of
I discovered the delightful Viski Karoly museum. They were
clearly about to close and wouldn’t take my entry fee in euros. As I had no
forints, they kindly allowed me in for free so long as I took no photos.
(Photography incurred an additional fee.) I thought we had misunderstood each
other when the young assistant then approached me holding out two felt objects
that looked like donation bags. To my amusement and surprise, these turned out
to be slippers to wrap around my feet with string. Treading carefully, I
climbed a flight of stairs where a room was ceremoniously unlocked to reveal a
stunning display of Hungarian history, ancient guns, solid wood furniture and
brightly coloured hand-embroidered clothing. A further room contained row after
row of glistening minerals and rocks.
Back on board, we set sail for Serbia. This entailed leaving
the European Union and our experiences at the border provided a possible
portent of things to come post-Brexit. After a filling dinner and a few drinks
we were all ready for bed. Unfortunately, the customs officers had different
ideas. Moored up at Mohacs the ship’s crew prepared all of our passports for
examination and stamping. Not unreasonably, bearing in mind this is a border
crossing, the customs officials and border police normally expect to board the
ship check each person’s face against his or her passport. By 11.30pm we were
tired and ready for bed but our charming hotel manager, Hans, warned us that we
faced the indignity of being hauled to of bed to present ourselves. Making a
fuss would likely result in further delays, as he had experienced on a previous
cruise when an angry passenger nearly got himself arrested. Fortunately, the
excellent record keeping by the ship’s reception staff and their calm, professional
manner, along with their excellent hospitality (they offered the officials
drinks and sandwiches) enabled us all to get to bed by midnight.
Silver Travel Advisor recommends Shearings River Cruises.
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