Dublin, the Isles and Lochs of Scotland On-board Fred. Olsen's Black Watch - Part 3
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Kirkwall, Invergordon and home
6pm and 550 miles later sees us
arriving in Kirkwall, where they are celebrating the St. Magnus International
Festival, a midsummer festival of the arts on Orkney. After dinner, a quick
dash to the shuttle bus to get to the parade held by the harbour which is
thronged by crowds of people, with a population of only 9,000 it seems that
everyone has turned out for the occasion. The rain has stopped, the sun is now
shining from an almost cloudless sky, the Kirkwall Pipe Band are playing,
people are dancing and the area dominated by a huge green cloaked effigy of St
Magnus. The band stop playing, dancers become still as the effigy speaks “I
wish everyone to be good, I wish no one was sad, I wish the people all over the
world would smile more, I wish for everyone to have food and water, I wish to
discover new animals and their wishes given to all of you”, before wishing
everyone ‘Goodbye’ and being wheeled away into the town centre followed by the
pipe band for further festivities.
The sun was just setting as I looked out
across the harbour where fishing boats rested gently on the rippled water, a
small cruise ship, Hebridian Sky, sets sail for another port and it’s time to
return to Black Watch for a good night’s sleep ready for the next day’s tour.
Day 8 it’s a leisurely breakfast of porridge with Maple Syrup and full English breakfast washed down with lashings of coffee as our tour does not leave until 11.00 so 10.45 we join the rest of our coach party in the Neptune Lounge waiting to be called. Finally, number called we make our way to the waiting coach. The weather has changed back to rain but we are told it will clear. Travelling across the island our guide gives us a brief history of Orkney and how the new industrial area used to be an RAF aerodrome during the last war before we arrive at what is probably the most visited part of the island, that which during the 2nd World War was known as Camp 60 and the site of the Italian Chapel. In 1942, 1300Italian soldiers were captured in North Africa and brought to Orkney to help construct the Churchill Barriers which were four causeways created to block access toScapa Flow. 550 of these prisoners were housed at Camp 60 on Lamb Holm. They asked for a place of worship which was agreed by the camps Commandant and the camp’s Catholic priest.
Two Nissen huts were joined end-to-end, the interior was covered with
plasterboard and the altar and altar rail were constructed from concrete left
over from work on the barriers. Much of the interior decoration was done by
prisoner Domenico Chiocchetti who painted the sanctuary and other prisoners decorated
the rest of the interior. They created a frontage of concrete concealing the huts
shape, corned beef tins were transformed into light holders and the font was
made from the inside of a car exhaust covered in a layer of concrete. Shortly
before the war ended the prisoners were released but Chiocchetti remained on
the island to finish decorating the newly consecrated chapel. The interior is
amazing, beautiful, a work of art and for me, certainly the highlight of that
day’s tour. Leaving the chapel, we make our way to the premises of a product
for which Kirkwall is world renowned, Highland Park Whisky. The distillery
founded in 1798 by Magnus Eunson gets its name from being located in an area
called High Park. The tour begins with a “Wee Dram” in special glasses which we
are allowed to keep and is followed by a film of the brewing process and a tour
of the distillery. Did you know that the whisky is matured in barrels that have
been used for storing sherry in Spain and that gives Highland Park its distinctive
flavour!!
Highland Park is one of the few distilleries that utilises locally
sourced peat and malts its own Barley. Time to move on to our last stop, the
magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral, Britain’s most northerly cathedral dominating
the skyline above Kirkwall, building began in 1137 by the Viking Earl Rognvald
in memory of his uncle St. Magnus. The building is not owned by any church but
by the people of Kirkwall and has become a huge tourist attraction. The
interior can only be described as magnificent with its ornate ceiling, wood
carved pulpit, alter with miniature Viking long boat, flags and so much more.
To the side on the opposite of the road are the ruins of the Old Bishops Palace
and tourist office in its grounds. This is a venue I will return to as there is
much to see that shortage of time on this visit prohibited. Returning to the
ship the rain has indeed stopped but it is still thick cloud with more rain on
the way as we sail to our last port of the cruise, Invergordon.
Day 9 I wake to the sound of the pipes. On the quayside
is a lone piper standing in the rain welcoming us to his Highland home. This is
an early start and we are aboard the coach before 9am heading away from
Invergordon towards Loch Ness, will we see Nessie!! The rain has eased and is
now a fine mist that restricts viewing the beautiful scenery and old castles
that adorn the area. Soon we are at our first stop on Loch Ness where we sample
delicious home-made scones, again with lashings of jam and cream. The mist is
such that we can’t see the far side of the loch and Nessie has not made an
appearance so back on the coach and head for Inverness, capital of the
Highlands. Inverness stands on the banks of the River Ness and located near two
battle sites the most famous being the 18th century Battle of
Culloden. Several surveys carried out show that Inverness is the happiest place
in Scotland and home to many beautiful old buildings. Inverness Castle built in
1835 overlooking the river, St. Andrews Cathedral with its square topped spires
and the church of St. Michaels Mount by the river. Inverness is also the host
city for the Highland Games and famous for the Inverness Cape, worn in the rain
by pipers all over the world. Leaving this beautiful city behind we continue to
the small town of Beauly standing on a river of the same name. It’s where Mary
Queen of Scots stayed in 1564, the site of Beauly Priory founded in 1230 and
Lovat Castle.
The small town is bedecked with brightly coloured flowers in
pots, beds and baskets, the priory ruins stand regally in the sun light, yes,
the sun has arrived. This is a place where the shops still close for lunch,
people are polite and drivers courteous, a town I intend to return to. We are
now heading back to Invergordon and to Black Watch passing seals sun bathing on
the rocks that protrude above the water at low tide, small coves with secluded
beaches and into the town where houses boast large murals on their side walls.
Too soon we are back at Black Watch and we access the gangway for the last time.
Passengers throng the outer decks to witness our last sail away. The sun shines
from a clear blue sky, the water so calm it reflects the ship and surrounding
landscape when we are brought back to the immediate world by 3 long blast on
the ships whistle as we say goodbye to Invergordon and Scotland, a pipe band
plays us away, passengers wave, some with tears in their eyes as we move slowly
away from the quayside and make our way along the Cromarty Firth past oil
drilling platforms at anchor into Moray Firth, The North Sea and set course for
Dover.
That night we dine in the Black Watch Room, the ships
speciality restaurant with one wall depicting the Black Watch Regiment of
Scotland. Sat at a quiet table for 2 we enjoy pan seared scallops on a crushed
pea and broadbean base topped with crispy pancetta and mint dressing as a
delicious starter, 35 day aged prime cut sirloin steak grilled to perfection
with hand cut chips, cherry tomatoes and garden vegetables was a mouth
wateringly good main course. Desert, a yummy vanilla ice cream topped with a
very generous covering of amaretto and coffee followed by coffee and mints to
finish off a memorable dinner. The wine throughout was a chilled cava that just
kept flowing. Was it worth the cover charge, yes it certainly was.
The following day being a sea day I book in for a Swedish
Massage at the Atlantis Spa on deck 4. Never having had one before this for me
was a voyage of discovery. Lying face down on the massage table discreetly
covered by towels, soft music playing, the Thai masseuse began her work. Starting
with neck, shoulders, back using a wonderful warm oil it was then legs and
feet. Turn over please. This time it was start at the bottom and work up. 55
minutes later she has finished and whilst still 73 years of age I felt more
like 33 years. A wonderful experience that massaged tired muscles and removed
tension. I can now understand why many
people have massage on a regular basis certainly an experience I will repeat.
How do you sum up this cruise, with great difficulty is
the answer. People travel in their millions to locations overseas failing to
realise what is on their own home doorstep and yes, I have been one of them. In
10 days, we sailed a total of 2,229 nautical miles, cruised to places I had
never been, but now want to revisit and made many new friends. Dublin has so
much to explore, you need at least a long weekend, not a day to take it all in,
the beautiful scenery, lochs, glens, mountains and history of Scotland where
even after a two week touring holiday there would still be a great deal more to
see. The ships tours were excellent and represented exceptional value for money
with guides who were not only knowledgeable but obviously enjoyed their work
and it showed.
There are many areas that are a favourite with walkers
and hikers and if you wish to have the best of both worlds and take up these
activities then what better way than booking through Ramblers Walking Holidays who
combine some of their walking holidays with Fred Olsen Cruise Lines.
As for Black Watch, what can I say that I haven’t said before.
The ship although launched in 1972 is pristine, the crew are very professional,
friendly, polite and efficient, the food is up there with the best, drinks are a
reasonable price as are the daily gratuities, cabins comfortable and the
entertainment well presented by the ships show team. A special thank you to Ian
our table waiter who remembered our names from the first day and was always
there to greet us at our table, Gladys who kept our cabin in such splendid
order together with all the other staff who give such fantastic service and
Simon the Cruise Director for arranging things for me. It’s easy to see why
Fred Olsen’s passengers keep coming back time after time, as I said earlier 52%
on the cruise were repeat passengers. This is a cruise that not only would I
recommend, but I want to do it again.
Special Offer for Silver Travellers - Save up to 10%
Save up to 10% when you book any holiday with Fred.Olsen Cruise Lines - and that’s on top of any current offers.
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Silver Travel Advisor recommends Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines.
See also
- Dublin, the Isles and Lochs of Scotland onboard Fred. Olsen's Black Watch - Part 1
- Dublin, the Isles and Lochs of Scotland onboard Fred. Olsen's Black Watch - Part 2
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