Dublin, the Isles and Lochs of Scotland On-board Fred. Olsen's Black Watch - Part 2
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Tarbert and Fort William
Day 4, and
looking through one of the port holes I see the familiar sight of Tarbert on
Loch Fyne, the only port on the itinerary we have visited before, therefore no
rush this morning. Time for a leisurely breakfast in the Glentanar Restaurant
served by Ian our dinner waiter. Porridge with maple syrup followed by eggs, bacon,
beans, mushrooms and fried bread washed down with copious amounts of coffee are
the order of the day, can’t beat a healthy breakfast! Looking through the large
picture windows the rain is still falling but with a few patches of blue, there
is hope it will clear. By noon the rain had stopped and the sun is trying hard
to make an appearance. Being anchored in the bay we make our way to the tender
station for the 5-minute tender ride into the small harbour. Tarbert according
to the last census in 2001 had a population of 1338 although in fairness it has
increased since then but not by much. Tarbert has a long history going back to
731, an area set in a small cove that is stunningly beautiful, overlooked by
its castle built in 1326 by Robert I of Scotland and a harbour fringed by
shops, cafes small hotels, shops and artist studios. The cafe that we
discovered on our last visit had to be revisited, it was that good. The Galley
Cafe or to give its full name The Galley Cafe and Chef Shop from the outside
looks like any other but step inside and be amazed at the decor. Walls adorned
with paintings by local artists, comfortable seats, tables that don’t wobble
and a rear wall sporting quality items for the kitchen that any chef would be
proud of. At the counter, you are greeted with a genuine smile as you select
from the largest scones I had ever seen, current, cheese, plain, with jam,
butter, cream the choice is yours and when you have decided, the question is,
warm, toasted or cold. This is a place I could while away an afternoon without
any problem but soon it’s time to walk back down the slight incline to the
harbour and board the tender back to Black Watch but not before we have watched
two Swans parading along one of the harbour slipways with 5 baby cygnets. The
wind has increased and we have a bumpy but exhilarating ride back but once on
board all is again tranquil.
Time to freshen
up and change for dinner as we are early seating at 6.15pm and meeting friends
in the Morning Light Pub for drinks first. This is a delightful venue adorned
with Chesterfield style chairs and settees, large picture windows giving
wonderful sea views and overseen by a picture of the original Olsen brothers, Fredrik
Christian, Petter and Andras who started the company back in 1848 in the small
town of Hvitsten on Oslofjord in Norway.
Day 5 and it’s up on
deck early to see us pass through the Corran Narrows as we progress our journey
along Loch Linnhe towards Fort William passing the Corran Point Lighthouse,
built in 1860 and still active today, we slow almost to a stop to allow the
Corran Ferry to pass in front of us on its short journey from Nether Lochaber
to Ardgour with its cargo of cars and foot passengers. Soon we are underway
again and along with Simon the Cruise Director I visit the navigational bridge
for the last leg of our transit. For those who have never visited, the bridge is
a place of calm, adorned with screens, controls, computers, the lookout is
constantly scanning the way ahead through high-powered binoculars whilst
Captain Age is very much in charge and control making sure we are all safe. The
view from here is, as to be expected, superb. Soon we are dropping anchor and
chain, over 6 tons of it to secure us in a stable position. Unfortunately, rain
is still falling and a breeze is blowing causing the mercury a struggle to
reach 15C.
Back on board it’s
time for one of the Fred Olsen speciality teas held in the Observatory Lounge.
Tables laid with white table cloths, sparkling cutlery complemented by shiny
cups and saucers. White gloved waiters deliver cake stands, the bottom level
full of sandwiches filled with prawns, cucumber, salmon and other delights
whilst the centre level contains cream wafers, cream eclairs, small tarts
topped with fresh strawberries and orange, the top level, pots of jam, cream
and butter ready for the scones. Now to choose the tea, so many to choose from
it’s a difficult choice but whichever you select it will be delivered in a tea
pot complete with strainer. Real tea, not tea bags, as some would say, the only
way to drink tea. The attentive waiters are always there replenishing the
sandwiches, tarts and scones. Everything was perfect but for me the scones
oozing cream and strawberry jam were a delight. Tea finished its time to make
use of the Promenade Deck of which 5 times around is a mile, how far did I get,
sorry that’s a secret.
Days 6 and 7, it’s up early as we
pass Fingal’s Cave known for its natural acoustics
on the uninhabited
island of Staffa, one of the islands making up the Inner Hebrides. Unfortunately,
it is still raining so the view is a little limited but Simon the Cruise
Director gives the history of the cave over the ships PA system followed by a
recording of the famous overture by Felix Mendelssohn. Heading towards our next
port, Portree on the Isle of Skye the weather worsens, the wind force
increases, white crests can be seen on the wave tops and it comes as no
surprise when Captain Age announces that we are to miss Portree on grounds of
safety and continue to Kirkwall in Orkney the following days port. People are
naturally disappointed but safety is paramount. Extra activities are arranged
on the ship and I decide to attend the afternoon quiz organised by Alex the
Senior Cruise Host. For once the questions appear easy, they must be as I know
some of the answers. After swapping papers and marking those of another group I
get mine back and find I have scored 18 out of a possible 20 as have another
couple so time for the tie breaker, “In what year were traffic wardens
introduced in London?”. My mind races back over the years and in the end, I
plug for 1962, the other couple have said 1963. In time honoured tradition Alex
keeps us on tender hooks before announcing “the answer is, 1960”. This is the
first time I think I have won anything on a ship and what is the prize, a token
of one point, enough to get a key ring which will be a memento of that quiz as
we steam full speed for Kirkwall.
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See also
- Dublin, the Isles and Lochs of Scotland onboard Fred. Olsen's Black Watch - Part 1
- Dublin, the Isles and Lochs of Scotland onboard Fred. Olsen's Black Watch - Part 3
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